Highland cattle to the rescue in Loch Arkaig

A little colony of rare butterflies has grown again this year at a remote loch. About 30 minutes to the North-west of Fort William is the gorgeous Loch Arkaig.  Called the Allt Mhuic butterfly, they've found 15 chequered skippers, whatever they are. In 2005 there were only 38, and by 2009 they found only 3 but then there was a recovery of sorts, to 8, and now they've found 15.


They sent in Highland cattle to graze the area, and this let plants flourish, which the butterflies loved. With this limited success, they are going to try the same thing again in other areas. 

The approach to Loch Arkaig takes you past several scenic sites - the Commando Memorial, Caledonian Canal and Loch Lochy. In the Mile Dorcha, or 'Dark Mile' you pass the picturesque Caig (Chai-Aig) Falls and out to Loch Arkaig. Arkaig is a beatiful Loch, with many types of trees along its shore

The French funds, the treasure of Prince Charlie, the Bonnie One, is supposedly hidden near here.


John

The story they don't tell you about the Glencoe Massacre
History around the cottage in Appin
Did the Vikings stage a battle in Glencoe?
The Pictish broch in Lismore
West of Scotland millions of years ago
Robert the Bruce and the Ardchattan parliament
Robert the Bruce and the Knights Templar
The story of the MacDonalds of Glencoe
Ancient roads of the Highlands
Glencoe, the 4th Wonder of Scotland
Castles in the Glencoe area

Our guests are lovely

Lovely family, they came back to the cottage a second time, in October. Thanks Steven. Lovely pics, Jake is clever. I didn't recognise Inverlochy Castle from this angle, had to ask him. I should know better. Not many visitors to Fort William know that there is a brilliant castle within a short walk from the Town.



Hello John,
The week went so fast and we really had a great time and only wish we were still there now.
Michelle thanks for providing all the towels and linen, sorry we didn't meet you this time.

The walks, the peace, the beauty, the friendly people and even the weather didn't spoil it.
Just to let you know the Holly Tree is still serving excellent food and the Clachhaig too and the best fish and chips in "The Oban fish and chip shop".

We covered more area this time, from a day in Glasgow visiting where my Father in Law grew up (he had not been back to the area for over 50 years) and the NT tenement house really bought his memories flooding back.

We walked in Glencoe, around Fort William, Cuil bay and caught the ferry over to Corran and drove on the most beautiful deserted road through Morvern to Lochaine.

I attach some pictures Jake took and we really hope to return again and again.
Steven

Lochside cottage near Glencoe in the Highlands of Scotland
Last minute, late availability Glencoe, self catering cottage
20 brilliant walks around our cottage area
Easy hill walks in Glencoe
Why not walk up Ben Nevis one day?
Easier Munroe walks in Glencoe
Skiing Glencoe and Nevis range, cottage is midway between the two
Video. Skiing on Glencoe mountain
Weather in the West of Scotland
Rock and Ice climbing in Glencoe
Cycling and fishing Glencoe
Spectacular wild life around our cottage
Golf in the Highlands, Dragons tooth golf course, Glencoe
Cruising the islands, using Glencoe as a base
Safe, beautiful beaches and bays in Glencoe area
Touring the Highlands by car from Glencoe,
Spring breaks, March April May Glencoe
Winter breaks, Jan Feb March in the cottage
Autumn breaks November December in the cottage
Our new Appin blog site

The Clachaig Inn - the heart of Glencoe.

When I was a young man of 20, I finished National Service and came up to Glencoe in February before going back to work. I stayed in the Youth Hostel next to the Clachaig, and took the early slopes of the famous Clachaig Gully. Very very wet, very slippy. Not the place for solo climbing. I slipped down into what is now called the Boots Bar. The Clachaig Inn was famous even then. All the climbers met there, and they still do. You hear it mentioned to-day wherever climbers meet around the world and talk about Scotland. 


We have just posted a new page in our website about where to eat in the Glencoe area. This is what we said about the meals at the Clachaig Inn - and we meant it


"For the past 60 years, since the end of World War 11, the Clachaig has been at the centre of peoples plans. "What shall we do to-morrow?" you can hear every night in the Bar. It is always busy, always fun, many languages, everyone mixes in. The meals are fine, pub meals at pub prices. You won't find City people here, no collars and ties, but no drunks and no rough stuff either. You’ll find music here, most weeks."


They stock over 200 malt whiskies. The atmosphere is tremendous.


John
ps Ed, what are your plans for Christmas and the New year in the Clachaig, so we can tell our guests when to come and what to expect? I'll post them.
pps In case anyone thinks I'm just plugging a friend's place, you should know that Ed and I don't always see eye to eye, we are sort of arm's length to each other, but I hold to none in my admiration of what he has done at the Inn.
From Clachaig postings in the Glencoe website

Offer runs from: 07/11/2011 to 20/12/2011
The Clachaig Christmas Party Tuesday 20th December Stuff the turkey - it's a hog roast at Clachaig. To celebrate the re-opening of the refurbished Boots Bar we introduce the inaugural Clachaig Christmas Party Night. Refectory style dining in the new look Boots Bar ... Complimentary glass of Mulled Wine on arrival 3 course Hog Roast Buffet from 7pm to 8.30pm including Homemade soup, hog roast & all the trimmings – stuffing, apple sauce, baked potatoes. Desserts include our legendary ‘boozy’ trifle. Live music from Shananigan - plus a guest appearance from one of our old 'acts' out of retirement especially for the evening. A fun, informal and positively relaxed Clachaig Boots Bar style night out. Perfect for your Xmas party with friends, family or colleagues Santa will be making an appearance complete with a bulging sack and not a Brussels sprout in sight. £19.95 per person Special accommodation tariff on a bed & breakfast basis at £25 per person if the taxi bill home again is looking a bit steep. Contact us now on 01855 811252 to book your table.




The best walks in Glencoe    
Ben Nevis, go climb it
Munros are over 3,000 feet
Some Munros are easy
Glencoe rock climbing
Skiing in Glencoe is excellent again
New cycle tracks around Glencoe
There are lovely beaches and bays around Glencoe
Accommodation Fort William
Golf on the West coast
Tour the Highlands
You can cruise the West coast
Driving around Glencoe on snow and ice - Tips

Always somewhere new to find around Glencoe

Lovely email from Kay and Roger. This photo is by Billy Currie, one of the great Scottish professionals.

Hello John and Gillian,  Roger and I had a wonderful holiday, thank you so much for letting us stay in your lovely cottage, it really felt like home from home! (in fact we have an almost identical kitchen to yours!)
You seem to have thought of everything!

We have stayed in the area before, but  it was very helpful having all your information and suggestions. We discovered Glen and Loch Etive this time and thought it was glorious, plenty of wild life, lots of Deer and Chaffinches galore! The majority of our time was spent in and around Glen Coe and Rannoch Moor, we just love being there and enjoyed  eating in the Clachaig Inn. We have met some lovely people on our travels.

We've not been to the Isle of Skye, so we planned to go on the last Wednesday and perhaps stay the night, but unfortunately Rogers back went (this happens occasionally!) so we stayed in for a couple of days, which worked out well as the weather wasn't great and it was so cosy and relaxing in the cottage. We hope to come back and visit Skye very soon.

Will send you some photos as soon as we've sorted them out. Thank you once again.

Masses of information about the area in our Site map

This is about Fort William

Appin is beautiful

Bed and breakfast and hotels from Oban to Fort William

Walks around our cottage

Autumn short breaks in Glencoe

Ben Nevis walking is a slog, but worth it

Cottage holidays Scotland in the Autumn, Winter, Spring

The highlands of Scotland

Find holiday cottages anywhere

Gorgeous photographs of Glencoe

Hill walks in Glencoe

Munroes in Glencoe

Port Appin

Barcaldine

Accommodation in Lochaber

Kentallen

Ballachulish

Onich

These pictures and this story are a joy. Yes, this is a Scottish holiday

Love the story Helen, and the pics are so good. We like people in our pics because with people there is always a story. All three of them are lovely. Thank you

Hello John and Gillian,

We had an absolutely brilliant holiday. We were so impressed with how well equipped your cottage is, you seem to have thought of everything we could possibly need. Thank you also for all your info on walks and things to see, really helpful.

Right where did we go: The Gondola on the Glen Nevis range, fab views from the top, also the Glencoe mountain ski range, lift up and walked down, Quite a challenging walk to the hidden/lost valley, which we loved, Lighthouse at Ardnamurchan, lovely scenery all the way, Stalker castle cafe, Ferry across to Lismore (should have allowed our selves more time on the island), Cuil Bay, Signal Rock, the lovely walk on Glen Nevis to I think it was Steall falls, had a drive around the beautiful Loch Leven, a visit to Oban, including the sea life centre and the distillery, also drove out to Invermorriston  and enjoyed a picnic by the river, a rather scary drive in the rain along the road that goes nowhere to Loch Etive, Oh, and climbed the ‘small’ hill behind the Duror hall. We were huffing and puffing, a wake up call that we need to get fitter! We enjoyed meals at the Holly Tree and the Clachaig Inn.

It is hard to say what was our favourite thing, we loved it all; but I think we both particularly enjoyed the walk to the hidden valley despite a freezing cold wade through a mountain stream to get there!

The weather was no worse than we expected, the first couple of days were good, one day very soggy and the rest a mixture, will send you pictures of us on the soggy day. We noticed that there doesn’t seem to be any such thing as drizzle in Scotland, just three drops as a warning, then a downpour. Thank heavens for whisky! ( or Real ale for Tim).

Thank you again for everything, we will definitely visit Scotland again, there was so much more we wanted to see.

Best wishes,
Tim and Helen Eustace


Lochside cottage near Glencoe in the Highlands of Scotland
Last minute, late availability Glencoe, self catering cottage
20 brilliant walks around our cottage area
Easy hill walks in Glencoe
Why not walk up Ben Nevis one day?
Easier Munroe walks in Glencoe
Skiing Glencoe and Nevis range, cottage is midway between the two
Video. Skiing on Glencoe mountain
Weather in the West of Scotland
Rock and Ice climbing in Glencoe
Cycling and fishing Glencoe
Spectacular wild life around our cottage
Golf in the Highlands, Dragons tooth golf course, Glencoe
Cruising the islands, using Glencoe as a base
Safe, beautiful beaches and bays in Glencoe area
Touring the Highlands by car from Glencoe,
Spring breaks, March April May Glencoe
Winter breaks, Jan Feb March in the cottage
Autumn breaks November December in the cottage
Our new Appin blog site

This is for walkers in the Highlands, only walkers. Lovely tale.

This Travellers Tale is for walkers, from Jo Mourant a guest at the cottage with her partner Colin Murphy. You hillwalkers will feel you are right in the middle of this. This is why most people come to Glencoe, and this is the kind of story they tell. They remember it for years, and years. The lovely picture was taken on a mobile phone believe it or not. The route is the one just behind our cottage.
(A hard one is to scramble up the slope immediately behind the cottage and keep going. I did it within three days of buying the cottage, 24 years ago. Remember it like yesterday) 

Hi John,

We had a great week at the cottage thanks. The weather didn't bother us at all actually as, to be honest we would rather it wasn't too hot for walking and it was pretty clear most days anyway so we didnt really get wet at all. Everything in the cottage was fine, we didn't have any problems at all and were very happy and cosy there.

We went out walking every day locally. The Pap of Glencoe we did on the first day in the afternoon which is a great quick walk to warm up! The next day we did easily the hardest but best walk which was from a walking book I would thorougly recommend - Collins Ramblers Guide to Ben Nevis and Glen Coe. The walk started from the back of Ballchulish just behind the primary school walking straight up to Ben Bhan which felt almost vertical and also tricky as there is no path and a lot of heather to trundle through. Then up along the ridge which was stunning along to Sgorr Bhan and Sgorr Dearg, absolutly worth the climb. Then down the other side and then another tricky steep descent (no path) through the woods/felled trees (again no path due to logging) then back along to the starting point. We went up Ben Nevis one day as I hadn't been, a good walk but very very busy! It was certainly interesting seeing how inappropriately dressed some of the other walkers were. The pub at the bottom is worth popping into for a drink! Another good walk we did was starting at big cairn just past the study on the main road all the way following the river up the valley (Lairig Eide I think it was called) then ending up with a gorgeous view of Glen Etive then back around the back of Stob Dubh all the way back to the road. We also walked one section of the West Highland Way one day up the Devils Staircases through to Kinlochleven which was a nice walk too, lovely views all around.

Apart from that Colin did quite a few runs in the evening so explored a lot of the area around the cottage which he thoroughly enjoyed. We also did a few little drives locally -I would recommend going down past the castle then exploring the single track roads down towards the Seafood restaurant. You won't meet many other cars at all!

Pretty much every evening we popped up to the Hotel just up the road for a quick drink as their terrace has lovely views. We ate out just one night at the Climbers bar which I thought was a fantastic pub especially for drinking - they had 10 different local ales on, a fantastic choice! The food was ok, Col enjoyed his meal but mine wasn't great but I didnt mind as the atmosphere makes up for it.

Attached some photos for you - one of Col looking towards the 3 sisters, one from the top of Sgorr Dearg and then one from the terrace of the HollyTree.
Thanks again
Jo

The Highlands are what you make of them. They can be BRILLIANT- it is up to you

We received this lovely email from David and Kim who stayed last week. Thank you, you two. It is comments like this that make it so worthwhile letting the cottage. The Ardnamurchan scene shot by David has hardly altered since the volcano erupted there 55 million years ago. I think his photograph of Kim is lovely. Scotland is what you make it - if you are looking for South of France weather then you will not enjoy it. 

We never had a day without rain, but we were never 'washed out' for the day - all that was needed was the right clothing!  We had four walks, Ben Hiant on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula, Pap of Glen Coe, Steall Falls and Meall Cumhann, and the Lost Valley in Glen Coe. Saw herds of red deer from Ben Hiant, wonderful rainbows from the Pap, golden eagle from Meall Cumhann and with the rain all the rivers were full so the waterfalls were impressive. Never got any high level walks done, limited visibility in low cloud was one issue, but gale force winds on the summits was the main concern. We'd hoped to get some climbing done, but the rocks were not dry enough to make it enjoyable. We did spend a rainy morning at the indoor climbing wall in Kinlochleven; some good routes in the 15m main hall. Also had a great afternoon there ice climbing; highly recommended (we are also now deemed competent for our next visit to just book a session and look after ourselves!).  Did the tourist bit around the cafes and shops of Fort William, and completed a circuit of Loch Ness via Inverness for lunch and the Culloden battlefield site (again, recommended; very good visitor centre). Very much looking forward to returning later in the year.

Photos from David
Enjoying the deserted beaches on the Ardnamurchan Peninsula.
Taking in the view from Meall Cumhann above the Nevis Gorge.

This is a link I need to put in to help another website I'm involved with. Sorry.
Jazz Smugglers plays at the Chichester Festivities June 25th

HISTORY PAGES.
The story they don't tell you about the Glencoe Massacre
History around the cottage in Appin
Did the Vikings stage a battle in Glencoe?
The Pictish broch in Lismore
West of Scotland millions of years ago
Robert the Bruce and the Ardchattan parliament
Robert the Bruce and the Knights Templar
The story of the MacDonalds of Glencoe
Ancient roads of the Highlands
Glencoe, the 4th Wonder of Scotland
Castles in the Glencoe area
GLENCOE OUTDOORS
The best walks in Glencoe
Ben Nevis, go climb it
Munros are over 3,000 feet
Some Munros are easy
Glencoe rock climbing
Skiing in Glencoe is excellent again
New cycle tracks around Glencoe
There are lovely beaches and bays around Glencoe
Accommodation Fort William
Golf on the West coast
Tour the Highlands
You can cruise the West coast
Driving around glencoe on snow and ice - Tips
BLOGS
Travellers Tales from the highlands of Scotland
Find your ideal holiday cottage anywhere
The most beautiful photographs of Glencoe
The achingly beautiful area of Appin, Scotland
Special offers for self catering in Scotland
COTTAGE ATTRACTIONS
Lochside cottage near Glencoe in the Highlands of Scotland
Last minute, late availability Glencoe, self catering cottage
20 brilliant walks around our cottage area
Easy hill walks in Glencoe
Why not walk up Ben Nevis one day?
Easier Munroe walks in Glencoe
Skiing Glencoe and Nevis range, cottage is midway between the two
Video. Skiing on Glencoe mountain
Weather in the West of Scotland
Rock and Ice climbing in Glencoe
Cycling and fishing Glencoe
Spectacular wild life around our cottage
Golf in the Highlands, Dragons tooth golf course, Glencoe
Cruising the islands, using Glencoe as a base
Safe, beautiful beaches and bays in Glencoe area
Touring the Highlands by car from Glencoe,
Spring breaks, March April May Glencoe
Winter breaks, Jan Feb March in the cottage
Autumn breaks November December in the cottage
Our new Appin blog site
FOR LASTMINUTE BOOKINGS
Short breaks in Scotland, Last minute cottage holidays Scotland, Autumn, Winter, Spring
Weather month by month Scotland summer
Weather month by month Scotland Autumn
Weather in Scotland Winter, month by month
Misunderstandings about Scotland's weather
Scotland's rain
Advice on driving in Scotland. Several Scotland driving pages are linked to this.
Honeymoon cottages in Scotland
Scotland for Christmas and New Year
The unofficial Scottish tourist Board
Cottages in Scotland permitting smoking
Cottages in Scotland welcoming pets
FOR WEST OF SCOTLAND SITE
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in the West of Scotland
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in Oban
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in Glencoe
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in Fort William
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in the far West of Scotland
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in Appin
Port Appin and Lismore B&Bs
Barcaldine B&Bs and hotels
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Onich b&bs
How to find cottage owners self catering websites
MISC
Misunderstandings about Scottish weather
Get off those speeding fines on Scottish roads

These Scots communities try very hard. The story of Duror bridge.

In the old days, the first choice for travel was by water. The MacDonalds, the old Lords of the Isles, came to power through their control of the islands and the ships. They fought with everyone in their time, every clan in the west, the Kings of Scotland, and the Kings of England. Their persistent longstanding enemies were the McDougalls of Lorne, from the Oban area, and the Campbells of southern Argyll. They had an on/off relationship with the Stewarts of Appin, the longstanding residents of Duror.

Raiding parties, Campbells, McDougalls, herdsmen moving cattle, travellers of all kinds, farmers in the 14th century - the time of Robert the Bruce - all crossed a little bridge in Duror near our cottage. Before that it is rumoured that there would have been a wooden bridge here, the obvious crossing point over the river. It is not too fanciful to imagine ancient Mesolitihic people who certainly lived in this area using a crossing here.

The bridge was re-built 300 years or so ago. It was replaced in 1939 when the new road bridge was built.

It looks quaint in the photograph, but to-day you have to search hard for it. It is in the middle of an overgrown copse beside the road to the lovely Cuil Bay. Unusued, unheralded, forgotten.

Not quite.

The excellent Duror and Kentallen Community Council a few weeks ago told residents that they had a little money to spare and asked for ideas. The leading idea was to clear and renovate the old bridge. That is a lovely idea, and Gillian and I both hope that it comes to pass.

John

ps.
In case any holidaymaker in Scotland is in Glasgow around the end of June and early July and likes jazz I can recommend the Glasgow Jazz festival, where some of my friends are playing.
My own band has a big gig at the start of the Brighton Festival Fringe on May 9th. Here are a couple of links to it. If you've got a bit of a holiday in Brighton at that time, then pop in and we'll get you a concession ticket if you ask for John.
Jazz Smugglers at the Brighton Festival
Jazz Smugglers home page

Maggie goes to Sanna Bay to see the storm. Winter walks

It does not get much more remote than lovely Sanna Bay, just facing the Isle of Muck. This photograph was taken by Geo5  on a nicer day than the one our guests had and if you click the title of the post you can get to his Flickr pages.

Dear John,

No - the weather wasn’t too bad at all, the really bad stuff seemed to pass us by. The worst wind and rain seemed to happen at night time.

Years ago, when the boys were little we stayed at Acharacle and while we were there we went to Sanna Bay in a storm (because we love watching big waves). So we thought we’d catch the ferry and go for a drive. The woods on the way down were beautiful and although the wind was in the wrong direction for big waves it was good to go back there. Sanna seemed to have lost some of it’s wildness with a carpark to organize the tourists – but I suppose the locals must have thought it necessary.

We had a really lovely sunny day on Kerrera. On another day we went on an absolutely beautiful sunny walk behind Kinlochleven around Mamore Lodge and up to the reservoir. The other days all had rain – but not bad driving rain. It snowed on the mountains – but not at our level. Nothing stopped us going out but it would have been better if it hadn’t got dark so early.

We only ate out on one night and that was at the Clachaig Inn. The food was good and the beer was excellent. Then we had 2 nights at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel (food excellent) and drove home yesterday.

Maggie,
Thanks Maggie for sending us this. I've heard very good reports of the Bridge of Orchy food, we must try it out soon.
LASTMINUTE
Short breaks in Scotland, Last minute cottage holidays Scotland, Autumn, Winter, Spring
Weather month by month Scotland summer
Weather month by month Scotland Autumn
Weather in Scotland Winter, month by month
Misunderstandings about Scotland's weather
Scotland's rain
Advice on driving in Scotland. Several Scotland driving pages are linked to this.
Honeymoon cottages in Scotland
Scotland for Christmas and New Year
The unofficial Scottish tourist Board
Cottages in Scotland permitting smoking
Cottages in Scotland welcoming pets
WEST OF SCOTLAND
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in the West of Scotland
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in Oban
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in Glencoe
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in Fort William
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in the far West of Scotland
Holiday accommodation, B&Bs, hotels in Appin
Port Appin and Lismore B&Bs
Barcaldine B&Bs and hotels
Duror b&bs
Kentallen b&bs
Ballachulish b&bs
Onich b&bs
How to find cottage owners self catering websites

Ian sees an eagle and a sea eagle all in one trip

This is a lovely February sunset picture taken by Ian near Strontian. He calls it "De-populated" - I like the way he got the ducks to swim in front of him at the right time. We can't get this shot in the Summer because the ferry has already finished before sunset! February can be a lovely month for doing not much at all. 
Hi John,

Weather was only really against us for short bursts and so managed low level walks on both Saturday and Sunday, Ardsheal peninsula and Steall waterfall respectively, both of which much enjoyed. Also enjoyed a fine drive over to Morvern/Ardnamurchan - saw Sea Eagle and Golden Eagle - with a wee stop in Strontian (see 'depopulated' photo) before back to Kentallen for an evening meal at the Holly Tree.

Weekend break was pretty much what we were looking for so, in short, that was probably the best bit!

Ian
The story they don't tell you about the Glencoe Massacre
History around the cottage in Appin
Did the Vikings stage a battle in Glencoe?
The Pictish broch in Lismore
West of Scotland millions of years ago
Robert the Bruce and the Ardchattan parliament
Robert the Bruce and the Knights Templar
The story of the MacDonalds of Glencoe
Ancient roads of the Highlands
Glencoe, the 4th Wonder of Scotland
Castles in the Glencoe area
GLENCOE OUTDOORS
The best walks in Glencoe
Ben Nevis, go climb it
Munros are over 3,000 feet
Some Munros are easy
Glencoe rock climbing
Skiing in Glencoe is excellent again
New cycle tracks around Glencoe
There are lovely beaches and bays around Glencoe
Accommodation Fort William
Golf on the West coast
Tour the Highlands
You can cruise the West coast
Driving around glencoe on snow and ice - Tips